It’s the only one left.

When I was growing up, London had four main Afro-Caribbean areas: Brixton in the south, Tottenham in the North, Dalston to the East and Harlesden/Ladbroke Grove to the West. Tottenham is now the only one yet to feel the fashionable force of gentrification. I was down there today because Cobblers Lodge on West Green Road is the best place in London to get shoes re-soled or rucksacks repaired. The area is remarkably unchanged, retaining a colourful, urban vibrancy totally devoid of artisan coffee shops or organic delis. In truth, it’s a bit of a dump. Tatty old shops and streets of shabby terraced houses with satellite dishes rather than Farrow & Ball’d front doors. There’s clearly a lot of poverty around Tottenham but there was also something about its 1980s Jamaican vibe that made me feel very at home. Especially when I heard this blasting out of an old BMW.